This semester in APD 341 Studio III Advanced Patternmaking and Draping myself and my peers created adaptive garments with user-centered design practices for three participants with disabilities. These participants met with our class to discuss their pain points with clothing, specifically regarding the process of dressing and undressing and share their aesthetic preferences. I chose to design for Darlene, who shared she preferred her clothing to be less form fitting, have 3/4 sleeves, and employ knit fabrics. She also mentioned due to the limited mobility in her hands, she preferred garments to have easy to use closures or be entirely pullover. I provided Darlene a few sketches to chose from and she landed on this asymmetrical top.
This t-shirt blouse was created by drafting a t-shirt bodice and sleeve block from Darlene's measurements, then cutting the bodice into pieces to create the style lines and color blocking. These pieces were then joined together to create a full front and back, with serged seams to avoid irritation and discomfort often associated with color block garments. The sleeves and bottom opening were finished with a single fold hem, done on the cover stitch machine. The V-neckband was finished with a strip of the jersey fabric used in the garment with a centered mitered corner. This aspect of the garment is the one I found most difficult, yet most rewarding, as mitered corners do require a level of finesse. This specific maneuver was made more difficult by being on stretch fabric and it needed to be perfect on my first attempt. I had never sewn a neckline finish on a t-shirt before and I had completely flubbed the neckline on the mock up. I did not realize my initial construction plan would not work, so I had to pivot and change my finishing method for the final garment without making another mock up. This neckline came out great, especially considering that this was my first try!
At the beginning of this project I was a little nervous about Darlene's choice since I thought this garment was the least inventive out of the choices I provided. After all, it is just a t-shirt, not an "adaptive innovation." I reached out to my professor, Ms. Carrico, just to double check it was okay for me to make this simple of a garment. I was so concerned my design did not meet the assignment requirements. She replied "Your design fulfills the requirements because it meets the needs of Darlene." This reply made me rethink my frame of reference and what it means for a garment to be accessible.
Through this project, I learned that innovation, new materials and ideas are essential for pushing the industry forward, there is also a reason why certain methods and materials remain popular. Innovations are integral, but familiar techniques and materials which people already recognize and know they like and are comfortable, should not be discounted. Comfort typically stems from a place of familiarity, so special attention should be paid to these seemingly innocuous preferences. Pairing them with new advancements to create designs will result in clothing that is both innovative and practical.
